Off Grid Yurt Living

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This past winter I embarked on a dream of mine to live in the mountains in an off grid yurt. For 4 months I lived in the Coconino National Forest which is a 1.856-million acre United States National Forest located in northern Arizona in the vicinity of Flagstaff. Originally established in 1898 as the “San Francisco Mountains National Forest Reserve” I would defiantly rank this adventure experience right up there with my best adventures. It was not only life changing but it also found the answer to that simple question. “What would it be like” A question that I am often compelled to find the answer to when applied to certain dreams. This however was a much deferent type of journey than journeys past. In stead of passing by landscapes and constantly moving towards that elusive horizon like my run across America in 2010 or my bike around America in 2011. My 2012 mountain yurt experience was one that watched the mountains move instead of I. Experiencing the Neighboring Coyotes constant prowl for food or the winds kick up and clouds roll in before a big snow storm.

544844_857838619217_1765783302_nYurt Construction… I built the Yurt myself from scratch for $700. I came up with the money by selling my Mac Book Air Laptop Computer. The Yurt took about 2 weeks to build during this time I lived out of the back up my 2000 Ford Ranger. Living out of the truck was an experience in and of its self. I quickly found my top priority was finding a way to stay warm at night. I spent $150 on a propane heater that I quickly fell in love with. The first week or so I was very skeptical of the Mr. Heater thinking that I may die of carbon monoxide poising in my sleep but slowing began to trust it and found the back of the truck a pretty cozy place to spend the night. The hardest part of building the yurt was building the insulated circle platform that would become the yurt floor. After I got the lattice all tied together the rest of it went up pretty fast. As winter quickly approached the construction of my yurt was coming to an end as well as my quest to summit all of the area’s major mountain peaks. I putting on a few finishing touches on the Yurt which included a custom log counter and end table both made from Aspen with hand tools.

860031_10200231142733361_673878021_oWinter… I woke up and scraped some frost off the window in the door and peaked out. A blanket of white snow covered the tall ponderosa pine forest. It was so cold in the Yurt I slept with my snowsuit and winter coat on. My failed attempt at installing a home-made barrel stove forced me to resort to plan B. Since the vinyl of the yurt was literally only two 561770_857838449557_456251077_nseparate peaces it majority of it was air tight, However the crack between wall and the roof let in way to much air. After stuffing the cracks with clothes, plastic bags and basically anything else that did not have a practical use I decided I just needed to spend some money on insolation and a bigger propane heater. I did and the results were amazing. My goal was to be able walk around my yurt in my normal clothes on a cold winter night and be worm. It work. Since heat rises I bought reflective bubble wrap insolation and covered the roof placing it in between the rafters and the roof vinyl. I also bought pink insolation to replace the clothes in the cracks. Along with my new Big Buddy Mr. Heater these upgrades made the 200 square foot yurt into a warm winter hut.

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Here is where I spent most of my work day. It was a 30ft rental yurt with a nice wood stove.

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This was that farthest yurt out on the trail system, named morning-glory. It had a great view of San Francisco Peaks and was a favorite among them more advanced skiers or outdoors men. It was 3 mile and a 1000ft elevation gain to reach.

Work… Along with the snow came the opening of the Flagstaff Nordic Ski Center that I would be working at for the winter. The Nordic Center was located about 15 miles out of flagstaff in the national forest. The 40 miles of groomed ski trails through the national forest would soon feel like my personal winter playground. One of the groomed trails passed by my front door not more than 10 yards away. This Nordic Ski Center is unique in the fact that it provides skiers with an over night option. 5 yurts and 4 cabins scattered the mountain side giving guessed the option to pack up some gear and head out to one of the remote off grid geta ways. Although the pay was only $9 per hour I would consider this a dream job. Since no one lived out there it was part of the agreement that I keep and eye on things at night. On a typical day I would walk over to the lodge about an hour before anyone got there and start the fires. The whole lodge was off grid and used wood as its main source of heat. Next I would put all the ski boots away that were on the drying rack from the prevues day. Maybe shovel and restock the wood piles or cut kindling. Around 10am people who had spent the night out in the yurts or cabins would start skiing in. We offered a gear shuttle service which ment a co-worker or I riding out on the snowmobile to pick up their gear. Often times we would clean the yurts while we were out there to save trips. I really enjoyed these days as it basically ment driving a snowmobile around in the mountains all day. Most of the yurts has amazing views of the San Francisco Peaks. I would describe the position as a mountain man house keeper and I loved it. The other half of the job was renting out ski gear to people excited to try out the trails. Since most of the people who rented were first time skiers from Phoenix it was a joy to introduce them to the sport. One of my favorite perks of working at a place like this is the type of people who it attracts both as guest and as employes. Most of my co workers were guides in the Grand Canyon in the Summer ether by rafts or hiking. Two of them had were planning major hikes in the spring. One the continental divide trail and the other the pacific crest trail.

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Cooking one night over my out-door wood grill.

I really enjoyed being out there. Living in a yurt feels like you are living with nature like you are part of it. You can hear it and feel it. With out electricity you need to find new ways to do things. You need to plan ahead. It forces you to slow down and enjoy your surroundings. To go out skiing or snowshoeing on a daily basis instead of sitting inside all winter and watching TV or something. I have now moved back to Wisconsin to work my second season at the DC Adventure Center but have passed on the Yurt dream to my co-worker Dan who is currently living in the yurt down in the valley. Dan is a backpacking guide in the Grand Canyon and although he spends most of his days on the trail. When he does have off he calls the Yurt home. Thanks to those who helped make this dream a reality. It was an adventure.69046_857844672087_525912581_n

Day 27 (Tsegi) 38 miles

I almost used this picture for the cover of my book. Didn't quite work but its still one of my favorite shots and unknown places of the trip.

3/13 I stayed with Kent and Irene Orr in Red Lake. They proved to be very helpful on a stretch I had anticipated to be incredibly difficult. Kent helped me patch up Ruby’s right tire and for the time being it seems to be as good as new. It was 49 miles to Kayenta and I had every intention of covering the distance in one day. Unfortunately my body disagreed with me. The stories I will wait to share later in life seem to be adding up. However, I will say that the constant mix of different foods and the extreme mileage leaves certain pastimes uncomfortable and messy. If you are ever traveling up highway 160 through Red Lake do me a favor and don’t look behind the left foot of the elephant feet rock formation. By my fifth stop I was getting good at anticipating the sudden eruptions and took a small amount of joy and satisfaction in the fact that I was no longer completely ruining my running gear. Despite my muscles and insides completely hating the days activities my eyes were fascinated on the extraordinary new landscape. Patches of pure white snow lay on the cliffs equally revealing the vibrant red rocks.

I reached Tsegi Canyon an hour before sunset and was able to enjoy the suns rays finding holes in the breaking clouds as they shone down on the truly beautiful painted canyon. An old sheep dog slowly walked up and sat down next to me. I found comfort in his innocent approach and enjoyed the company. We sat together appreciating the unique moment when you can watch God’s beauty unfold. 

Door County Adventure

This past week I had an interview with the Door County Adventure Center and decided to do a little camping on the peninsula while I was their. With summer being the peak season the spring peninsula was pretty quiet and I had most of it to myself. I decided to hike into a camp site on Europe Lake in Newport State Park which is located northeast of Ellison Bay. Newport is a 2,400-acre “wilderness park” with 11 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline and 3 miles of sand beaches. Newport has more than 40 miles of hiking and mountain bike trails. The park features 16 backpack, walk-in campsites, including several along Europe Lake. The shore’s of lake Michigan can get pretty cold at night especially this early in the season so I brought two sleeping bags placing one inside the other and brought a light winter coat as well. Usually when I am expecting it to get cold I prefer using the ground set up for the Tent Hammock but it was a still evening and without much wind I figured I would be fine to hang it next to the lake and still stay warm. A tip for anyone who uses tent hammock (use a sleeping mat inside your hammock it does wonders for your insulation. I actually had two and was warm all night despite the under flow of air which usually keeps people away from the hammock set up in colder weather.) I went about the usual business of setting camp up before it got dark. Strung the hammock, rolled out the sleeping bags, filtered some water, and gathered fire wood. It was some quality alone time and as the sun set over Europe Lake it defiantly reminded me of why I think of the peninsula as on of the top 5 place in the U.S. I fell in love with this place back in 2009 when I had my Pearson 26 sailboat. Spending the summer exploring the islands, small walking towns, sea caves, high bluffs, state parks, and cookie cutter harbors was defiantly the best summer of my life. Door County is also known for their cherries and while sitting in a small café the previous day I over heard locals talking about how they might have lost 75% of this years cherries do to the unseasonably nice weather and a recent frost. Nevertheless there is more than enough to do in this Northern Paradise besides stuff your face with cherries. Check out the Adventure Center for some guided sea kayaking or zip line fun. Rumor has it that sailing lessons are new this year. Not only can you stop in with your family but they also have a lot of group team building programs so check it out for your group as well. Depending on how well I was able to communicate in the interview my love for adventure, people, and door county I might just see you there. For now here are a few photo’s I snapped to get you excited to visit that peninsula that I would consider Wisconsin’s heaven.

This is some of the coast line on the east side of the peninsula. I believe this was taken at Cave Point near Whitefish Dunes State park. One of the area's the Adventure Center explores by kayak

I spent a lot of time with my little brother this week and when that happens a good throw down of Cripple Creek is usually not to far behind. Enjoy!

 

Day 8 (Amboy Rd) 28 miles

Solo and Unsupported Run across America blog rerun. Posted every weekday at 8am. Buy the now complete book and full story at www.abrahamlouis.com/runningwater

I was on the road running at 8:00am and left right from the house I stayed at. My legs were feeling pretty good. I think the day off really helped. I was headed out of Twentynine Palms to Amboy Road. Even on the map Amboy Road looked long and desolate. I turned onto Amboy Rd and the first sign I read was, “next services 90 miles.” I was happy that I had stocked up on provisions and water. The road was awesome for running and I put 20 miles behind me before noon. There were not a lot of cars out, and I was able to enjoy the road. However, the miles were a bit harder to come by in the afternoon. I had made the only turn on Amboy and was now headed north. The wind was a whipping, and I was not so lucky to have it at my back like I did along Interstate 10. It may have been bearable if not for the sand. The funniest things would get caught in the wind and pass me, one of them being a car bumper. I’m not sure if it blew right off of the car or if it had come from some far away junk yard. I crossed through the salt flats and over a huge hill. I hit the peak and began my descent. It was so windy I still had to push Ruby going downhill. The landscape out here is HUGE! I was entering what looked like an empty Lake Michigan. I made it about halfway across before I decided to set up camp and get out of the wind. A lot of lessons where learned from my previous night, and I was excited to put them to use.

Day 6 (twenty-nine palms) 34 Miles

Solo and Unsupported Run across America blog rerun. Posted every weekday at 8am. Buy the now complete book and full story at www.abrahamlouis.com/runningwater

Last night was pretty rough. I ended up camping in the back of Monongo Valley’s wildlife viewing park. For 3 hours I attempted to find a place to string my hammock. Trees are now sparse. After changing my hammock location four times, I finally settled for a less than perfect location. Two huge hills that came together formed a slopping ravine. I tied one end to a three-foot palm tree, crossed the ravine and tied the other to the base of a bush.

It was almost sunset as I unloaded the necessary gear from Ruby. A couple hand fulls of trail mix and a few pieces of beef jerky would serve as my meal for the evening. I put on all my clothing, took my 10 inch flat bear knife, bear pepper spray and crawled in for the night. It was a nightmare trying to get my sleeping pad and sleeping bag properly arranged in the swinging tent-hammock. I was exhausted. I was out cold the minute I was situated.

I woke up to find myself barely off the ground with little assurance that I wouldn’t end up rolling down the ravine. I checked my watch. It was 8 pm. I was in for a long night. The wind would blow up under my rain fly and lift the thin layer of insulation exposing me to the cool night air. If I breathed into my sleeping bag and didn’t venture any body parts off my sleeping mat, I was warm. The night wore on. At one point I heard cats meowing and thought nothing of it till the next morning. A sign read something to the effect of, “mountain lion warning, do not venture from trail.” I was happy I hadn’t discovered the sign yesterday for I’m not sure what my reactions would have been!

As the sun rose I started packing up camp. Ruby had survived the night as well, minus the small rodent that gnawed a hole in my trail mix bag. I found my way out of the park with only a few stares from avid bird watchers and was back on hwy 62. I felt accomplished having survived the night.

I jogged out of Morango Valley, and a green sign read 32 miles Twenty-Nine Palms. The highway was wide and long with gradual sweeping hills. It was all runable and I made good time. My hips ached from sleeping pinned between the hill and the hammock. Fortunately, my brother found two marines for me to stay with in Twenty-Nine Palms, and I couldn’t wait!

Day 5 (Marongo Vally) 26 Miles

Solo and Unsupported Run across America blog rerun. Posted every weekday at 8am. Buy the now complete book and full story at www.abrahamlouis.com/runningwater

My troubles started soon after I began running. It’s incredibly frustrating when a road leads us to a dead-end. I was able to get around the barbed wire fence and made some decent time on a dirt road that serviced the billboards. This area was the start of the Mohoby Indian Reservation. The dirt road was direct and easy on Ruby’s wheels, but in the back of my mind I knew a barbed wire fence was waiting to block my exit.

Sure enough, I approached the fence and decided to make a run for it. With a determined rush of adrenaline, I threw Ruby over the fence . Just like that I was on the road again. This type of travel went on all morning. I had to fight for every foot. Some of the terrain I crossed would have been just as difficult with or without Ruby’s 70 lbs to push. None of these roads were on the map and the day was completely frustrating.

Throughout the entire day the wind was ripping through the valley, and I could hardly hear myself think. I was trapped in a wind tunnel created by the two large mountains on either side of me. When I thought that it couldn’t get any worse, I came to a fork in the road. On my left was a steep single dirt road leading up to fields with windmills. On my right was a sign that read, “ends in 500 ft.”

I started up the dirt road when a huge dump truck came around the turn a quarter mile ahead. Their was no shoulder on this road, and I instantaneously turned around and bolted down the hill. I took to the road that would eventually end and it turned into a small dirt path. Once again a barb wire fence separated me from the free way.

Not wanting to be forced on the free way, I checked the GPS and found route 62 a mile and a half away. Not wanting to run out of my way, I tightly hugged the edge of the free way. I ran fast, easily completing 5 minute miles. The wind was howling and cars where blowing by. I stared straight ahead whimpering, “this little light of mine, I’m gonna let it shine.” The hill finally gave way to a ditch and I thrust Ruby to the left as my eyes scanned the unknown. It was extremely rough and I’m proud Ruby stayed in one piece. I made it to route 62 and was relieved when I started along the old 29 Palms Hwy. The road was empty. The scenery was breathtaking and I reached for my camera…

Devastation hit when I reached for my camera only to find it missing. I couldn’t believe it! I had just come through the worst stretch imaginable and had to go back. My heartbeat began to rise as I wheeled Ruby into the bushes. It was a risky decision to leave her, but I had to go alone. I ran back over the path, my eyes scanning the desert ground. I was back to the ditch along the freeway with no defined path. I wound my way through the mess and continued searching for two miles. I put my hands on my face and slowly began to lose it.

I looked up to scan the area one final time and miraculous saw my camera a few feet ahead lost in the brush! After catching up to where I left off, I knew I had one more climb before Morongo valley. Four miles up hill hwy 62 cut through the hills. Traffic was fairly heavy and it took a lot of will power to finish off the day. I made it to Morango Valley at 3 pm and began to look for a place to camp.

Day 4 (Cabazon) 22 miles (hwy 10)

Solo and Unsupported Run across America blog rerun. Posted every weekday at 8am. Buy the now complete book and full story at www.abrahamlouis.com/runningwater

A decision was made. I would attempt to go around the mountains. The trade-off was a 4500 foot elevation and snow for extra miles. For the most part it was a gradual downhill route excluding one 3500 foot climb. It was another perfect sunny day, and I was excited to know I had a host family in the next town.

Everything was going good, too good. With 4 miles to go I hit a dead-end road. I had expected this from looking at the satellite map the night before, but didn’t expect the barbed wire fences. There was no clear-cut road aside the freeway but a mess of dead ends and dirt paths. To top it off every field was surrounded by barbwire fences. I found myself pushing Ruby through a huge field to find the other side of the fence. This would not have been a huge problem if not for Ruby’s 70 lbs. I found a dry water run off ditch that I was able to squeeze Ruby through after removing her back wheels. Long story short, I had to back track to find another dirt path.
I eventually connected to a service road that lead to an A+W. It seemed like a good meeting place to be picked up. It was awesome to have so much of the route be downhill, and at times I was doing 7 minute miles. I find humor in the reactions of people driving by. Some smile, some wave, some shake their fists, some give the peace sign and some simply point. One thing they all do is hold their stare a few seconds longer than socially acceptable! Kevin Allen picked me up and was very kind. He has a wonderful family and cute kids.

Day 3 (Yucaipa) 23 mi

Solo and Unsupported Run across America blog rerun. Posted every weekday at 8am. Buy the now complete book and full story at www.abrahamlouis.com/runningwater

I woke at 6:30 to fill water bottles and mix my GU brew. After dropping the kids off at school with Chilto, we headed to where I had stopped running the day before. I started to put Ruby together when we both came to the horrible realization that Ruby’s wheels were left in there other car. Chilto was very nice about my mental lapse and drove us back to the house. By the time I was out and running it was 10am and I no longer had an early start to the day.

A locked gate blocked my entrance as I approached the Lake Perris State Recreation. I was hesitant to duck the gate and proceed but was left with little options. A sign on the ticket window read the list of fees for the park ($35 camping, $20 boating…) If the DNR stopped me, I would just kindly state, “their was no fee listed for run campers.” The park proved to be beautiful. With the whole road to myself, Ruby and I were off to a good start.

Eventually I wound my way out of the park, through Moreno Valley and over the Live Oak Canyon pass. The views were incredible with the San Bernardino Mountains as a backdrop. We were on a downhill course as Ruby and I rolled into Yucapia. Yucapia was in the shadow of a huge mountain with a dense population.

Doug picked me up shortly after I called and took me back to the house for some homemade turkey soup! We discussed my plans of passing over the San Bernardino mountains and both agreed it would be wise to stay clear of the 9,000 foot elevation and recent snow fall. My new route will take me south to Beaumont, east to White Water then I’ll stay on hwy 62 through Twenty-nine Palms.

For the amount of mileage I put in the past 3 days, (86 mi) I feel pretty good. I have some minor swelling in my feet, sunburn on the back of my ankles, a sore back and my wrists are starting to develop blisters from the tension of Ruby. I’m ready to hit the hay but will try to get a few pictures posted.

Day 2 (Hot air Balloon)

Solo and Unsupported Run across America blog rerun. Posted every weekday at 8am. Buy the now complete book and full story at www.abrahamlouis.com/runningwater

Day two is behind me and I must admit, I’m starting to feel the mileage. Kiki picked Jon and I up this morning and drove me to where I left off the day before. We had a few issues finding the location but figured it out and said our goodbyes. She took Jon to the airport, and I was off running. It was comforting to have Jon accompany me yesterday, and I’m grateful for the footage he was able to capture.

I ended up taking a different route then planned. I believed it to be less hilly even though it added a few miles. I have not fully tested its accuracy, but the odometer read 30 miles. Non-the-less it was a long route.

Today’s run did prove to be flat. It seemed like I was running along in the valleys for most of the day, though I did pass over two hilly ridges. These ridges were both long and gradual which were easier than the steep hills I experienced yesterday. A couple of hours into my run, I saw a hot air balloon rising above the approaching hills. Four hours later, I found its source. Balloon rides and indoor skydiving peaked my interest, but I had a lot of ground to cover due to my navigational errors yesterday and such childish games would have to wait.

At sunset I was losing energy and stopped at an ice cream shop. I downed a medium and ran a pretty impressive 5k in the dark. I reached my second day check point and waited on the corner for my host family to pick me up. Around 7:30 they arrived and ordered me a large pizza! They threw me in the shower and sent me to bed in a large double. I had no complaints. I wasn’t sore when I woke up but have little confidence in giving the same report tomorrow morning.

 

Sailing across the Pacific on plastic bottles!

My daily laps on the Milwaukee river trail are about as mundane to post about as they are to run. I did register a new PR on the trail of 1:12:18 yesterday which was mostly due to a fast first few miles of venting frustration. Anyways I thought that it was due time to spot light another epic adventure. So here it is!This adventure captivated many from the very though simply because of the outlandish and bold statement “I am going to sail across the Pacific Ocean on plastic bottles.” Almost any sailing journey in our vast Oceans intrigues me however, this one in particular did because of the pure guts and foresight that David de Rothschild displayed. No one believed he could do it and he proved EVERYONE wrong. After several failed hail designs, where the boat would simply fall apart in the water, three years later they got it right. On March 20, 2010, the sailing vessel set off from San Francisco, California to cross the Pacific Ocean with a crew of six: British skipper Jo Royle, co-skipper David Thompson, expedition diver Olav Heyerdahl, filmmakers Max Jourdan and Vern Moen, and expedition leader David de Rothschild. The 60 foot catamaran partially made from reclaimed post-consumer plastic bottles called the Plastiki. The Plastiki successfully completed its journey to Sydney on 26 July 2010. When reading through David’s story I was fascinated by a few things that truly make him an interesting caricature. He is the youngest heir to a family banking fortune in England. By FORTUNE I mean “a private investment banking company, belonging to the Rothschild family that was founded in the London in 1811 and is now a global firm with 50 offices around the world!” He was the youngest British person to ever reach both geographical poles. One of only 14 people ever to traverse the continent of Antarctica. The following year he lead an expedition to the Ecuador and documented the damage international oil companies had caused my drilling the vast oil reserved in the Ecuadorian rain forest. He was awarded the accolade of “Emerging Explorer” by National Geographic, was appointed an “international ambassador” by NGO Clean Up The World and nominated as a “Young Global Leader” by the World Economic Forum. To say the least the 34-year-old British adventurer, ecologist, and environmentalist has accumulated quite a few epic adventures and has help our planet in many ways through his work.